The Comfort Series: Room-by-Room Rescue

Kitchen

Kitchen

The kitchen can be the coldest room in the house at breakfast and the hottest room by dinner.  In winter, cold air creeps under the back door, through the window above the sink and around the pipes inside the cupboards. The tiles are freezing, the rangehood rattles in the wind and warm air from the adjoining living room quietly disappears into the laundry. 

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Then someone starts cooking (hopefully someone else!). The oven heats up, pots boil, the dishwasher steams up the place.  The rangehood pulls air from the room, while the fridge works away in the corner producing a little more heat of its own. In summer, add direct sun through the window and the kitchen can become unbearable before dinner has even reached the table.

The kitchen is different from other rooms because it creates its own heat, moisture, smells and airborne pollutants. It needs effective ventilation while you are cooking; but it should not remain permanently open to the weather when the cooking is finished.

The goal is controlled ventilation, effective draught proofing and a kitchen that does not heat, cool or ventilate the entire house by accident.

Let’s fix that.

60-Second Room Audit (do this now)

Cooking heat

Does the kitchen become noticeably warmer when the oven, cooktop or dishwasher is running? Is it difficult to cook comfortably on hot days?

Why it matters: Cooking appliances release heat directly into the room. In an open-plan home, that heat can spread into the dining room and lounge, making your air conditioner work against dinner.

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Rangehood check

Turn on the rangehood. Is it actually drawing steam and cooking smells away, or mostly making noise? Are the filters thick with grease?

Why it matters: A clogged or poorly performing rangehood may not remove moisture, grease and pollutants effectively. Those remain in the kitchen and spread through the rest of the home.

Cold air from the rangehood

Do the windows fog while you are cooking? Is there damp around the window frame, behind blinds or inside cupboards on external walls?

Why it matters: Cooking and dishwashing add moisture to the indoor air. If that moisture is not removed, it can condense on cold surfaces and contribute to mould, damaged finishes and musty cupboards.

Draughty sink and / or dishwasher - yes, really!

Open the cupboard under the sink. Can you feel moving air around the water pipes, waste pipe, dishwasher hose or gaps in the back of the cabinet?

Why it matters: Kitchen plumbing often passes through external walls or floors. Large, unfinished holes around those services can connect the kitchen directly to the subfloor, wall cavity or outside.  

External doors and windows

Can you see daylight around the back door or sliding door to garage? Feel air under it? Does the window above the sink rattle or leak around the edges? 

Why it matters: Kitchens often contain a frequently used external door. Every gap allows heated or cooled air to escape and outdoor air to enter.

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Cold floor

Do the tiles or timber floor feel painfully cold in winter, particularly near the sink or external wall?

Why it matters: Kitchen floors are usually hard, and you spend a surprising amount of time standing still on them. Without underfloor insulation, and with cold air leaking around the edges, the whole room feels colder, your legs get grumpy and the person attached to them becomes steadily less committed to feeding anyone.  Take-away looks much more appealing! 

Open-plan heat escape

Does the kitchen open directly into the lounge, dining room, hallway or stairwell? 

Why it matters: The kitchen may be sharing its cooking heat with the entire house in summer; and allowing warmth from the living area to disappear into unused parts of the home in winter.

Direct summer sun

Does morning or afternoon sun hit the kitchen window, benchtops or floor?

Why it matters: Direct summer sun through the glass heats the surfaces inside the room and creates enough glare to have you making breakfast in sunglasses. Add an oven and several hotplates, and the kitchen can overheat very quickly.

Appliance airflow

Is the refrigerator packed tightly into its enclosure? Are bags, bins or pantry trolleys blocking floor vents or air-conditioning outlets? 

Why it matters: Refrigerators need ventilation around them to release heat - some brands need a lot more than others and older refrigerators need even more. Heating and cooling outlets also need clear airflow to work properly. 

Every “yes” gives you a clue - the aim is not to stop ventilating the kitchen. It is to let heat, moisture and pollutants out when they are being produced - without leaving the room permanently connected to outside.

The Big Kitchen Problems

Cooking Heat and Moisture

Cooking changes the indoor environment quickly.  Boiling pots release steam. Ovens and cooktops release heat. Frying produces grease particles and smells. Dishwashers can release another burst of warm, moist air when opened.

The best place to deal with these is at the source.

Use the rangehood while cooking, particularly when boiling, frying or using a gas cooktop. Use lids on pots and allow the rangehood to continue briefly after cooking.  If the rangehood recirculates air rather than exhausting outside, it may help with grease and odours if its filters are maintained, but it will not remove moisture from the home. That moisture still needs to leave through a ducted exhaust system or deliberate ventilation.

The Rangehood: Essential While Cooking, Draughty When It Is Not

A properly installed ducted rangehood sends cooking air outside. That is exactly what it should do while the fan is running. The problem arises when outdoor air can move freely back through the duct after the fan is switched off.

Check whether the external outlet has a working flap or backdraft baffle.  Listen for rattling in windy weather and feel for air movement inside the rangehood when it is off. Accessible filters can be cleaned as a DIY job. Damaged ducting, faulty dampers or poorly installed external outlets may require an appropriate trade.

Do not seal or block an operating rangehood duct. It must remain capable of exhausting safely whenever the fan is used.

Draughts Behind the Cupboards

The cupboard under the sink or behind the dishwasher can be one of the draughtiest places in the kitchen.  Water pipes, waste pipes, electrical cables and dishwasher hoses may pass through holes much larger than the services themselves. Those gaps can allow cold air, smells, dust,  insects and rodents to enter from beneath the floor or inside the wall.

Pull-out drawers and kickboards can hide similar gaps behind the cabinetry. Before sealing anything, identify what passes through the opening and make sure it remains accessible where required. Use a suitable sealant or cover for the size, location and material involved.

Do not seal over electrical equipment, gas connections, isolation valves or anything that requires access.

External Doors and Windows

Back doors are opened constantly and often lead to laundries, verandahs or outdoor areas. They may leak around the sides and top as well as underneath. Sliding windows above sinks can also develop worn seals, loose tracks and rattling sashes.

A door snake may slow some air beneath a door, but it will not seal the remaining three sides.  Proper draught proofing means identifying the door or window type and choosing seals that suit the actual gaps without stopping it from closing or operating properly.  Sealing the gaps reduces moving air. It does not insulate the glass itself.

Cold Floors

Kitchen floors are commonly tiled, polished concrete or timber.  These surfaces can feel particularly cold because you stand on them for long periods while preparing food, washing dishes or waiting for the kettle to boil. If the kitchen has an accessible suspended floor, underfloor insulation can reduce heat loss through the floor and improve the surface temperature. It can also reduce summer heat entering from hot air beneath the home. Underfloor insulation does not seal gaps around pipes, skirting boards or floorboards. The best result comes from addressing both air leakage and heat transfer.

Open-Plan Kitchens

In an open-plan home, the kitchen, dining room and lounge may form one large comfort zone.  This can work well when the weather is mild. It can become expensive when one heater or air conditioner is expected to manage the entire area.

In summer, cooking heat spreads directly into the living room. In winter, warmth from the living area may drift through the kitchen and into the hallway, laundry or stairwell. Close existing doors to unused areas. Consider whether a doorway can be reinstated or whether a curtain, noren or sliding divider could create a temporary boundary.

The aim is not to shut the cook away from everyone else. It is to stop the kitchen connecting your heating and cooling system to every room in the house.

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Summer Sun Through Kitchen Windows

A sunny kitchen can be delightful in winter.  In summer, direct sun through an unshaded window can add substantial heat before the cooking has even started. Internal blinds and curtains can help, but external shading is usually more effective because it stops the sunlight before it reaches the glass. The best shading solution should block unwanted summer sun while still allowing useful winter sun where possible.

Gas Cooking and Ventilation

Gas cooktops and ovens burn fuel inside the home and require appropriate ventilation. Use the rangehood whenever the appliance is operating, and ensure any permanent ventilation required for the appliance remains open and unobstructed. Never block a wall vent or other permanent opening without first confirming that it is no longer required. If you are unsure, ask a licensed gasfitter.

When the cooktop eventually needs replacing, induction can be considered as a longer-term option. It removes combustion from the kitchen and provides fast, controllable cooking, but it will require suitable cookware and electrical work.

Draught Proofing Does Not Replace Ventilation

Before draught proofing, an older kitchen may ventilate continuously through the back door, window gaps, wall vents, rangehood duct and holes around plumbing. Unfortunately, it does this whether you are cooking or not. Once the unnecessary gaps are sealed, you control when ventilation happens.

Use the rangehood while cooking. Use exhaust fans where provided. Open a window or door when additional fresh air is needed and outdoor conditions are suitable. Then close them when the heat, moisture and smells have cleared.

People, pets, cooking and dishwashing all add moisture and pollutants to the indoor air. A comfortable kitchen still needs fresh air. The aim is controlled ventilation—not permanent leakage.

Fast Wins (Less than 10 mins)

These are not complete solutions, but they can make the room feel better immediately.

1) Turn the rangehood on early

Switch the rangehood on shortly before cooking begins, rather than waiting until the room is already full of steam and smells.  Leave it running for a short period after cooking to clear the remaining moisture and pollutants. 

2) Use lids on pots

A lid keeps heat in the pot, helps water boil faster and reduces the amount of steam released into the kitchen. It also means less work for the rangehood and less moisture reaching the windows. 

3) Match the appliance to the job

Do not heat the whole oven for something that can sensibly be cooked in a smaller appliance.  On hot days, consider meals that need less cooking or use appliances that add less heat to the room. This is not a edict to live on salad all summer. It is simply permission not to turn the kitchen into a furnace for two pieces of toast.

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4) Close adjoining doors

Close doors to the laundry, hallway, spare rooms and other areas that do not need to be heated or cooled. Where the kitchen is open to the rest of the home, think about whether a noren curtain, sliding door or other divider could create a more manageable zone.

5) Clean the rangehood filters

A grease-clogged filter reduces airflow and makes the fan work harder. Clean reusable filters according to the manufacturer’s instructions (I put mine in the dishwasher!).  Replace disposable filters when required.

6) Check around the fridge

Make sure the refrigerator has the ventilation clearances required by the manufacturer.  Remove anything stored around vents or heat-release areas. The fridge should not have to fight its way through six shopping bags and a stack of trays to get rid of heat.

7) Put a mat where you stand

A kitchen mat near the sink or main preparation area can make a cold floor more comfortable underfoot.  Please be careful with mats in kitchens - they can become a trip or slip hazard.   Mats are a comfort aid only and not a substitute for underfloor insulation.

8) Ventilate deliberately

A kitchen mat near the sink or main preparation area can make a cold floor more comfortable underfoot.  Please be careful with mats in kitchens - they can become a trip or slip hazard.   Mats are a comfort aid only and not a substitute for underfloor insulation.

Weekend Fixes (that actually work)

1) Draught-proof your external doors

When to choose it: Choose this when you can see daylight around the back door, feel air underneath it or notice the kitchen is particularly cold near the doorway.

What it does: Correctly fitted door seals reduce uncontrolled air movement around the sides, top and bottom of the door.  This helps keep heated or cooled air inside while reducing dust, smells and outdoor air entering the kitchen. Choose seals designed for the door type and the actual gaps. A properly sealed door should still close without needing to be kicked, slammed or emotionally persuaded.

2) Seal Gaps Around Pipes and Services

When to choose it: Choose this when you feel moving air inside the sink cupboard or find obvious gaps around pipes, cables, dishwasher hoses or other services.

What it does: Sealing suitable penetrations reduces air movement from wall cavities, the subfloor or outside.  It can also reduce dust, insects, rodents and odours entering behind the cabinetry. Identify every service before sealing and maintain access to valves, gas fittings, electrical equipment and anything that may require maintenance.

3) Draught-Proof the Doors

When to choose it: Choose this when you can feel air around the sides, top or bottom of a kitchen door, see daylight around the frame, or notice that the area near the door is always colder in winter or hotter in summer.

What it does: Suitable door seals reduce air leakage around the frame and underneath the door. The correct product depends on whether the door is hinged, sliding or French, the floor surface and the size of the gaps. Door draught proofing should create a continuous seal while still allowing the door to open and close properly.

4) Draught-Proof the Windows

When to choose it: Choose this when the kitchen windows rattle, leak air around the edges or allow dust and insects through when closed.

What it does: Suitable window seals reduce air leakage around the moving parts and frame. The correct product depends on whether the window is sliding, double-hung, casement or awning, and where the gap occurs.  Window draught proofing stops moving air. It does not improve the insulating performance of the glass itself.

5) Improve the Rangehood

When to choose it: Choose this when the rangehood does not capture steam effectively, the filters are clogged (and cannot be cleaned or replaced) or outdoor air enters through the duct when the fan is off. 

What it does: Cleaning the filters improves airflow and helps the fan capture cooking pollutants more effectively. Repairing damaged ducting or a faulty external damper can also reduce unwanted air entering when the rangehood is not operating. Do not block or seal the duct. Have inaccessible or damaged components repaired by an appropriate trade.

6) Create a Kitchen Comfort Zone

When to choose it: Choose this when the kitchen opens into hallways, the laundry, a stairwell or other unused parts of the home.

What it does: Zoning reduces the area your heating or cooling system must manage. Close and draught-proof existing internal doors where practical. Where there is no door, consider a curtain, noren or suitable divider. Keep the kitchen connected to the dining or living area when you want it to be, and stop it heating or cooling the rest of the house by default.

7) Improve Window Coverings and Shading

When to choose it: Choose this when direct summer sun heats the window, benchtop, floor or dining area.

What it does: Internal window coverings provide some additional separation from the glass. External shading is more effective against direct summer sun because it blocks the sunlight before it reaches the window. Choose a shading arrangement that controls summer heat without permanently removing useful winter sun.

What you’ll feel (immediately)

A properly improved kitchen should feel:

    • less draughty around the back door and sink cupboards
    • warmer underfoot in winter
    • slower to overheat during summer cooking
    • easier to clear of steam and smells
    • less damp around windows and cupboards
    • more comfortable after the oven has been used
    • better separated from laundries, hallways and unused rooms
    • easier to heat or cool as part of the occupied living zone

The best result is not a kitchen that never changes temperature.

It is a kitchen that can deal with the heat and moisture created by cooking, and then return to being part of a comfortable home.

Budget & Time Snapshot

Free or almost free:

Time: A few minutes

    • Use lids on pots
    • Turn the rangehood on before cooking
    • Run the rangehood briefly afterwards
    • Close doors to unused rooms
    • Clean accessible rangehood filters
    • Check refrigerator ventilation
    • Ventilate deliberately after cooking
    • Avoid using the oven during the hottest part of a summer day where practical

Weekend Upgrades: 

Time: An hour to a weekend

Larger comfort upgrades

How to Make the “Big Ticket Items” Affordable

Time: One or more weekends, depending on the home

    • ecoGlaze: $ Beginner - Intermediate DIY install · ~1 hour per window ^
    • Underfloor insulation: $$ · Intermediate DIY · varies by access ^
    • Ceiling Insulation: $$ · Intermediate DIY · varies by access ^
    • Effective external shading: $-$$$  · Depends on aesthetic 
    • Upgrade to induction cooking: $$–$$$ · Licensed electrical work may be required
    • Repair or replace ineffective rangehood ducting: $$ · Appropriate trade

Improve heating and cooling only after the kitchen’s main weaknesses have been addressed.

 ^ Insulation can be installed DIY on a room by room basis.  This makes the cost quite budget and time friendly. 

Improve heating and cooling AFTER the room’s main weaknesses have been addressed.

The ecoMaster team are always available to help. Call 1300 326 627 or jump onto the chat function at www.ecoMasterStore.com.au 

Pick Your Room

< Back to Room by Room Overview

    1. Entryway / Hall 
    2. Bedroom 
    3. Lounge/Living 
    4. Kitchen (you are here)
    5. Study / Home Office / WFH (coming soon)
    6. Bathroom & Laundry (coming soon)

How to Make the “Big Ticket Items” Affordable

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