Stand inside during the day and look closely around the sides, top and bottom of your front/back door. If you can see daylight, there’s a pathway for hot/cold air, dust, smell and noise year-round.

Why it matters: any light = a pressure leak. In summer it drags heat and dust in; in winter it bleeds warmth out (and lets in freezing cold air).

Run a finger along the door stop and top frame. Fine dirt lines that re-appear after cleaning signal constant airflow. 

Why it matters: those trails are “air highways”. Air movement = temperature loss and more dust and dirt to clean.

Run a finger or a credit card edge where the architrave meets the wall and where skirting meets the floorboards. If it snags or you see a shadow line, you’ve got a gap.

Why it matters: tiny cracks act like air highways — they pull in dust, smells and cold air even after the door is sealed.

3pm summer glare test: If western sun hits the glass, stand in the entry way. Squinty eyes,  hot patch or glass is hot to touch that’s solar gain driving the heat spike.

Why it matters:  That heat is radiant, not a breeze — it spikes room temps fast and lingers after sunset. It creates a hot plume in the hallway that pushes warmth deeper into the house.  Your AC works harder (higher bills) just to tame a daily sun blast.

Stand in the hall at 12pm, lights off. Can you read your phone at arm’s length?

Why it matters: If not, it’s under-lit. Eyes adjust slowly after bright outdoors — a dark hall feels unsafe and unwelcoming. Use a brighter, wider-spread light.

When to choose: You see daylight at the edges and/or under the door, or you get a whoosh, dust or smoke drifting in.

What it does: Creates a continuous barrier so outside air, smells and noise don’t sneak through gaps. Comfort stops yo-yoing.

Choose:

• Front & Back Door Kit — for two external timber doors (e.g., front + back). Includes an RP3 draught excluder.

   

• External Door Kit — for one external timber door. Includes an RP3.

   

• Why not door snakes? They don’t seal corners or tops. You’ll still leak.

When to choose: Bottom looks tight, but you can see light or dust around the sides/top.

What it does: Removes the whistle and edge leaks without touching the threshold.

Choose: 

• Draught Dodgers for Doors – 1 Door Kit (sides + top only)

• Draught Dodgers for Doors – 2 Door Kit (sides + top only)

When to choose: You can see light under the door, or you’re sweeping up leaves, grit and bugs inside.

What it does: Blocks floor-level draughts that chill feet and track in dust/smoke-laden air.

Choose: 

• RP1 for draught excluder over carpet
• RP3 for hard floors (timber/tile/vinyl) — this is the standard included in our door kits
• RP35 when you need incredibly robust devices (where prams, wheelchairs, mobility aids are being used or high fire rating is required)
  

When to choose: You can see/feel hairline cracks where trims meet plaster or floorboards; dust lines keep forming along skirting even after cleaning; door sealing helped, but there’s still fine grit or whiffs of street smell.
What it does: Creates a continuous airtight trim seal, stopping sneaky airflow that bypasses your door fixes.

Choose: 

• Ultraclear – if there are only a few smaller gaps 
• Gap Filler Kit (Medium) – if there are a few narrow-ish gaps  
• Gap Filler Kit (Large) – for wide or deep gaps

When to choose: Western summer sun is blinding the entry.

Two ways to do it:

• Option A — Renshade (quick, cheap, renter-friendly)
  What it does: Reflects a good chunk of solar glare/heat before it gets inside.
  Why pick it: Fast to fit, low cost, removable (great for renters/seasonal use).
  Fit notes: Cut neatly and apply to the glass with velcro dots (supplied) most people use it just for the hot months.
  Look: Functional/techy.

   

• Option B — ecoGlaze with opaque acrylic (glare down, looks elevated)
  What it does: Adds an opaque acrylic inner panel to cut glare and boost privacy; improves comfort but won’t reduce heat as much as Renshade.
  Why pick it: Cleaner aesthetic and a permanent, neat finish; also adds impact resistance.
  Fit notes: Works on existing timber windows and doors. Choose an opaque/opal acrylic for glare + privacy.
  Look: Sleek/architectural.

Install tip: If heat is the main enemy, start with Renshade. If appearance + privacy are the priority (with some comfort gain), go ecoGlaze opaque.

What’s the problem we’re solving?
Your entry feels gloomy. The obvious idea is a skylight. But a skylight is a hole in your roof. That sounds dramatic because it is: you’re compromising your home’s thermal envelope (the layer that keeps outside air, heat and moisture out, and comfy air in).

Why skylights cause trouble (in simple terms):

• Heat in summer: Sun hits the skylight, the cavity gets hot, and that heat radiates straight down into your hall. Your AC works harder.

• Heat loss in winter: Warm air rises and heads for the easiest escape. A roof opening = easy escape. Your heater works harder.

• Moisture & leaks: Skylights need flashing and seals. Over time, seals age. Roof movement and storms happen. Water finds edges. (Ask anyone who’s had to bucket in their hallway or had to keep cleaning the inside of their skylight dome.)

• Bushfire season: The ember risk isn’t just “embers exist”. It’s that a skylight adds edges and gaps where embers can wedge underneath and smoulder. That’s a risk you don’t need to have.

• Hard to undo: Once you’ve cut the hole, you own the maintenance, the thermal penalty, and the risk. Reversing it is messy and expensive.

So what should you do instead?

Install a flat LED ceiling panel that gives you the same bright, daylight feel without touching the roof.

How the LED option solves it:

• Keeps the envelope intact: No roof penetration, no new places for water or embers to lodge.
• Comfort stays stable: No summer heat pouring in, no winter warmth escaping.
• Low energy, big light: Modern LEDs are efficient and fill the space evenly.